At Adaptive Surfing Magazine we were recently contacted by a remarkable surfer, named Chris Kimura, who was diagnosed with Castleman's Disease back in 1994. Castleman's Disease is a rare disorder that involves an overgrowth of cells in your body's disease-fighting network, the lymphatic system, and Chris was given 3-5 years to live. However, with persistence and a positive attitude he is still with us today.
Although he had to stop surfing for 20 years, he has been back in the water surfing again the past few years and he loves catching waves at Cardiff, despite requiring a monthly regiment of chemo and the use of an oxygen machine. He is an inspiration to many and his story goes to show hard work and positivity pay off.
Chris hopes his story can inspire others battling cancer and he passed along this inspirational video he made for us to share. Take a few minutes to watch this video and you'll be reminded that every wave is a good wave.
VIDEO AND IMAGES COURTESY OF CHRIS KIMURA